Notes from the road

17 August 2026 · Khalid

Couscous traces back to Berber communities at least a thousand years ago, and was recognised by UNESCO in 2020 — here's the history behind Friday's family meal.

3 August 2026 · Khalid

Beyond the Jemaa el-Fna — the specialist souks, the quieter neighbourhoods, and the everyday etiquette that makes exploring Marrakech on foot go smoothly.

20 July 2026 · Khalid

Once a year, the valley around Kelaa M'Gouna fills with Damask roses — hand-picked at dawn, distilled into rose water, and celebrated with a real local festival.

6 July 2026 · Khalid

From the sandstone arches of Legzira to the oyster lagoon at Oualidia — five of Morocco's best beaches, and what each one is actually good for.

22 June 2026 · Khalid

From Toubkal's 4,167-metre summit to the wetlands of Souss-Massa, Morocco's national parks protect real, sometimes endangered wildlife across five very different landscapes.

8 June 2026 · Khalid

Skip the inland heat — Chefchaouen, Essaouira, Ifrane and Tangier all stay comfortable in summer, while the desert is best kept for spring or autumn.

25 May 2026 · Khalid

Camel rides, friendly locals and short driving days — Morocco is genuinely good for family travel once you plan around the medinas and the heat.

11 May 2026 · Khalid

Tagine, pastilla, harira and mint tea — what to actually order in Marrakech, and where locals eat versus where the tour buses stop.

27 April 2026 · Khalid

Fes is quieter, older and slower; Marrakech is louder, more visual and more social. Here's how the two imperial cities actually compare, and how to see both.

13 April 2026 · Khalid

Camel rides at sunset, tagine and drumming round the fire, and a sky full of stars — what an actual night at a Merzouga desert camp involves.

30 March 2026 · Khalid

History lover, foodie, desert adventurer or blue-lane dreamer — a quick guide to which Moroccan city (or two) suits the trip you actually want.

16 March 2026 · Khalid

Realistic daily costs for backpacking Morocco — trains, grand taxis, hostels and street food — and where a private guide still earns its keep.

2 March 2026 · Khalid

An early start, an hour or two over the medina and the palm groves, and mint tea and pastries on landing — here's how a Marrakech balloon flight actually goes.

16 February 2026 · Khalid

How to travel Morocco more sustainably — solar-powered desert camps, mountain lodges built from local stone, and the women's cooperatives behind real argan oil.

2 February 2026 · Khalid

Casablanca to Agadir by the coast road — Rabat's beaches, the oyster lagoon at Oualidia, Essaouira's ramparts, the arches of Legzira and the surf at Taghazout.

26 January 2026 · Khalid

Most people land in Casablanca and drive straight out. Here's what's worth a half-day before you go, starting with the Hassan II Mosque.

12 January 2026 · Khalid

Carpets, ceramics, leather and argan oil — what each region does best, and a straightforward way to bargain without the stress.

15 December 2025 · Khalid

Car-free streets, a 9th-century university and the tanneries everyone photographs — how to spend a day in the medina we call home.

8 December 2025 · Khalid

Spring and autumn suit almost everything. Here is what each season actually feels like, city by city and desert by coast.

28 November 2025 · Khalid

You can trek a 4,000-metre peak, sleep on a dune and surf an Atlantic point break in the same fortnight. A rough map of what is possible.

10 November 2025 · Khalid

Marrakech, Fes, Chefchaouen, Essaouira and Rabat — what each one is like, and how to string two or three of them into a first trip.

23 October 2025 · Khalid

The drive to the Sahara is about 560 km, and the road is the reason to go. Here is how the route breaks down, stop by stop.

20 October 2025 · Khalid

Stand still in the Jemaa el-Fna at dusk and you will end up on the edge of a circle, listening to one of Morocco's oldest living art forms.

24 September 2025 · Khalid

The city you land in sets the tone for the whole trip. Here is how Marrakech, Fes, Rabat, Casablanca, Chefchaouen and Essaouira compare for a first visit.